Listening Earth Blog

I have to mention the Thai Longtail. Not because it is some exotic tropical bird, and sadly not because it is rare or nice to listen to. No. Longtails are both ubiquitous and very, very unpleasantly noisy. As any visitor to a waterway in Thailand will know. Longtails are the local form of water transport; a wooden fishing boat with a muffler-less truck engine on a swivelmount aft, driving a long propeller shaft. Longtail boatmen seem to delight in revving the engine and their skill in raising a great plume of spray in their wake.

For most tourists, Longtails are no doubt part of the local cultural colour. But for a nature sound recordist, they are a peril, as the noise they create across open waters can be heard almost to the horizon. I had been forwarned to expect frustrating conditions if trying to record on any of Thailand’s islands.

Nevertheless, paradise has been everything we hoped for and more! We have just returned from the island of Kho Ngai off the western coast of Thailand, in the Andaman Sea – a picture postcard island of aquamarine waters, palm trees, coral reefs and pure white sand.

And we struck lucky. After a first somewhat disappointing experience visiting an eco-tourism resort on nearby Libong Island, we were searching for a bit of comfort and some concerted rest after our weeks in the jungles. Koh Ngai sounded like a potentially good place, away from the busier tourist haunts like Phuket, PhiPhi or Samui.

The resort industry in Thailand is difficult to predict though, with each resort pitching for their own slice of the market; locals or foreigners, daytrippers, travellers or package groups, from backpackers to exclusive. We decided to just lob into a cheap resort on the island for one night, and then check out the resorts for ourselves and decide which one to spend a few days at. We walked the length of the beach at dusk and began at the far end, with the first resort being a tastefully designed establishment with very friendly staff and beautiful rooms. It all looked very up-market, but curious to see what one’s money would buy, we enquired further. We were told only a few dollars more than the rather depressing place we were in. Completely oblivious to our good fortune, we proceeded to bargain them down a little.

It turned out that the resort was new, and not fully open as yet, so they were only charging half rate. All the staff were there, and the kitchen was turning out wonderful food. But the marketing had yet to be done, and it was low season, so they only had a few guests, and there were further building works anticipated. All of which we found out in the following days of lazing around and just enjoying not having to do anything.

After a few days, I found out about a track across to the other side of the island, and went exploring. I was not expecting anything much, as islands are not usually very rich habitats. But this island completely surprised me, and led to a few early mornings and some wonderful recordings.

There were many lovely bird species to be heard; imperial green pigeons (a favourite of mine for their gruff booming call), oriental pied hornbills, orioles, dollarbirds, and best of all, many white-rumped sharmas, one of the most beautiful songbirds in Asia. We’d heard them often in our travels, but here they were calling frequently, several birds singing from neighboring territories in extended melodic ramblings that combined together to form duets and trios. Just exquisite.

I also found the nocturnal insect chorus was very pleasant, with occasional coucals, barking geckoes, tree frogs and a scops owl adding to the atmosphere. Gentle waves rolled in on a nearby deserted beach, as sunbirds called from overhanging trees, allowing another opportunity for a nice recording. And through all this, only the occasional longtail disturbed proceedings.

I thought I was supposed to be having a holiday! Actually it has been. The recording was easy and fun, if a little humid. I must have looked a sight trooping back into the resort for breakfast in my jungle boots and pants, covered in sweat. Ah but, a few minutes and a shower later, and I’m in a sarong with a pineapple shake in front of me. That is not hard work.

So Sarah and I have had some lovely days just hanging out together. Even though we spend so much time together, to have time to ourselves like this has been very much needed. Half way through our stay, a group of westerners arrived for a yoga retreat, providing some interesting companionship and conversation for us, especially as Sarah is a trained yoga instructor.

In this last week, we have been feeling the presence of the approaching monsoon. Each afternoon the clouds have been piling up into spectacular thunderheads, and a few evenings have been illuminated by lightening storms. Our final night here the heavens have opened to a downpour. The frogs have loved it, and I’ve heard what I’ve often heard about; the tropical frog chorus after the first rains of the season – deafening!

Now we are back on the mainland. Not just the mainland, but a new country – Malaysia. After a few days in Penang (where we are now), we shall head down to the mountain forests of Bukit Fraser, a highlight birding spot in Malaysia. And not a longtail in sight.

Read on to part 5

Tags: meditation music, National Parks, natural sounds, nature CD, nature download, nature music, nature sounds, sounds of nature, Thailand