Visiting the Rainforests of Vanuatu; our personal experience.

Loru Rainforest Protected Area covers 220 hectares of beautiful and pristine lowland rainforest, located on the island of Espiritu Santo, Vanuatu, in the Western Pacific.

Conservation awareness in Vanuatu is in its infancy, and the country has only a few areas currently recognised as conservation areas (another recommended area is Vatthe Conservation Reserve in northern Santo). Lowland rainforest in particular has been cleared for cultivation, coconut plantations or cattle pasture, and few extensive areas remain in their natural state. A major problem on many islands in Vanuatu is what the locals call 'American Vine', an introduced creeper that grows prolifically, smoothing whole forests and denying natural vegetation access to light. Apparently this vine was introduced by American forces during world war two as an aid to camoflage. If so, it ranks with the use of Agent Orange in Vietnam as one of the most distressing environmental consequences of warfare.

The Loru Protected Area is custodioned by the chief of Khole village, Kaleb Ser and his family, having been established in 1993. Whilst the land belongs to his family, the conservation initiative is supported by the whole village.

The reserve was initially established primarily to protect the habitat of the Coconut Crab (Birgus latro), the largest terrestrial invertebrate in the world. Coconut Crabs are harvested as a culinary delicacy, often for the tourist trade, with consequently declining numbers throughout the islands. The Loru population are being monitored to access restocking rates.

Many of the endemic bird species of these islands are found at Loru, including the unique 'Incubator Bird'; the Megapode or New Hebrides Scrubfowl. Other endemics one can find here included the Buff-bellied Monarch, Southern Shrikebill, Streaked Fantail, Tanna Fruit-dove, Dark-brown Honeyeater, Fan-tailed Gerygone and Yellow-fronted White-eye. You may also see Vanuatu Green Lizards, and the beautiful blue-tailed skinks that are commonly found everywhere.

A visit to Loru is best facilitated through the Wan Tok Environment Centre, who have an office in Luganville and have been instrumental in assisting the establishment of the reserve - email them for further information. Khole village is not on the telephone, so anything you organise through Wan Tok will have to be conveyed to the village via the weekly visit of one of Chief Kaleb's family, probably Waraker Ser. Hence you may still be arriving unannounced, as we did. However the welcome we received was warm, and the locals, as with Ni-Vanuatans generally, are friendly and easy going.

The rainforest is a 40 minute walk from the village itself, through gardens and coconut groves. Next to the rainforest is a small garden of an acre or so (providing an amazing variety of fruit), which is a peaceful and secluded place to relax and unwind. There is a colourfully decorated Nakamal (meeting house with small library), a bunk room (3 single wooden slat beds - bring mattress and sleeping bag etc), and an eating house (wood fire) with some utensils, pots etc. Good drinking water is available, a long-drop toilet, and you take a basin of water to a 'shower' room for a wash. We used our tent, and we would recommend this as a good alternate way to accomodate yourself.

If you are staying any length of time, you will need to organise your own food, although the village may happily supply you with whatever fruit and vegetables are growing locally. There is a bakery in the village and a small general store, but it may be wise to bring at least staples such as rice, biscuits and tinned fish with you from Luganville.

There is a one-off 500 vatu admission charge per person to the rainforest, and accomodation per night is also 500 vatu per person. This is very affordable by island prices, and the whole conservation initiative is a successful example of practical conservation and ecotourism working at a village level.

Many visitors apparently stay for a only short time, maybe just one night. This is sad as, in addition to the rainforest itself, there are many things to explore and experience in Loru and the nearby village. Guided by Cheif Kaleb's son, Kal, we visited a batcave (in which thousands of small bats roost during the day), tracked down huge Coconut Crabs by night, went snorkeling in spectacularly clear water while Kal spearfished for our dinner, walked to the largest single banyan tree we have ever seen and held the village's sacred 'Peace Stone' which is kept among its roots, learned about the cultivation and many uses of coconuts, and had deep philosophical discussions into the night. Thanks to the hospitality of Chief Kaleb, his wife Tonivil and his family, we felt so welcomed and included in life at Loru, that it was a sadness to leave after 10 days.

Click here for information, photos and sounds of Vanuatu's bird species, plus here for birding links for Vanuatu.